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A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush by Eric Newby

In 1956, at the age of 36, Newby ended his London career in fashion and decided impulsively to travel to a remote corner of Afghanistan where no European had ventured for 50 years. He sent a telegraph to the diplomat Hugh Carless, then First Secretary in Tehran, requesting he accompany him on an expedition to northern Afghanistan. They were ill-prepared and poorly-experienced, but Newby and his friend Carless vowed to attempt Mir Samir, an unclimbed glacial peak in the Hindu Kush of 20,000 feet.